How to Determine Your Skin Type: A Complete Esthetician Guide + Best Ingredients
"What's my skin type?"
It's probably the first question you asked when you started caring about your skin—and maybe the one you're still not totally sure about. But here's the thing: understanding your skin type isn't just about whether you're oily, dry, or somewhere in between. It's about learning how your skin behaves, what it needs in different seasons, and how to support it as it changes. In this post, we're breaking down what skin type really means, why it matters, and how to figure out yours—so you can finally build a routine that actually works for you.
Determine your skyn type
To determine your skyn type at home you’ll perform a cleansing test. To perform a cleansing test, take a gentle, hydrating cleanser, like Cerave Hydrating Cream to Foam Cleanser, pat the skyn dry, and don’t apply any moisturizers, serums or toners. Let your skyn rest for 2 hours, and allow your skyn’s natural oil levels to reveal themselves.
After 2 hours, observe your skyn in natural light. Paying close attention to your T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin), your cheeks and jawline, here are the key things you’ll look for.
Tzone: “Does it look matte, shiny, or tight?”
Cheeks and jawline: “Do they feel comfortable, dry, or oily?”
Here’s how your skyn will react and appear based on your skyn type:
Little to no oil: Dry or Normal
Oil all over: Oily
Oily only in T-zone: Combination
Patchy results depending on area: Combination
How Each Type Behaves
How your skyn behaves throughout the day can help you understand how to treat it properly. Here are the key things you need to understand about each.
Normal skyn
Normal skyn will be balanced. It’s not too oily, and it’s not too dry. You see minimal texture, and your pores are small. There’s no tightness or excess shine to the skyn. Throughout the day your skyn will feel comfortable and look about the same as when you first cleansed and applied your products for the day.
Dry skyn
Dry skyn will feel tight after cleansing, as drier skyn typically does not produce enough sebum (natural oils of the skyn) to keep moisture locked in, ensuring your protective barrier is hydrated. This skyn type may not have a lot of texture, but can often be flaky, contributing to the appearance of texture, as well as appear dull as opposed to smooth and glowy. It may feel rough in some areas due to the lack of sebum, and absorb products quickly as your skyn’s natural response to pulling what it needs to function. Throughout the day you may notice your skyn feels tight, itchy, and cannot hold the moisture of products that were applied this morning.
Oily skyn
Oily skyn may feel greasier, and have a more noticeable shine, especially in your T-zone. You’ll notice larger, more visible pores, that may frequently become congested or clogged and contribute to more frequent breakouts and the appearance of texture. Products and makeup applied may also breakdown more quickly due to the oil production.
While all this sounds like a curse, oily skyn can be a blessing in disguise. As we age, our skyn’s oil production naturally slows down, causing a host of issues from firmness and elasticity, to a compromised barrier. Oily skyn will experience a slower aging process, especially when treated properly. The key to oily skyn, is to find a way to balance the production without stripping the skinm
Combination skyn
Combination skyn will try to throw you for a loop, but can be managed easily if you understand what each section needs. In the morning your skyn may feel balanced and hydrated, but by the middle the day your skyn may feel the build up of natural oil and products applied in your T-zone. While other areas of the face may feel dryer than they did in the morning. Your skyn may experience more congestion in the oiler areas, causing the occasional breakout. The key to combination skyn is treating by area instead of one fits all routine.
Sensitive skyn
While most assume sensitivity is a skyn type, it’s actually a condition of the skyn and an indicator to what your skyn may need or lack. Any skyn type can also be sensitive, and in this state the skyn may react easily to new products, experience burning, stinging, and prolonged redness. Sensitivity is often linked to a compromised barrier, and can be assessed by checking the active ingredients in your routine, as well as checking the foundations of your routine to ensure they support healthy barrier function.
Common Factors That Affect The Skyn
Often people forget that the skyn is living, and changes are normal. You can experience changes in the skyn due to weather and changing seasons, a change in hormones, stress, medications, diet, and over-exfoliation or barrier damage. The best way to address any change in the skyn is to have a consistent routine tailored to its needs. You can do this by knowing which ingredients are best for your type, and sticking to them to give your skyn time to adjust.
3 Ingredients For Each Type
Each skyn type thrives with different nourishment. When you choose ingredients that honor your skyn’s natural rhythm, your radiance becomes effortless. Here are 3 key ingredients for each skyn type:
Normal Skyn — Maintain Balance & Radiance:
1. Squalane
Lightweight, biomimetic hydration that supports a balanced barrier.
2. Niacinamide (2–5%)
Refines texture, minimizes pores, and supports overall clarity.
3. Vitamin E
A soothing antioxidant that maintains a supple, healthy glow.
Dry Skyn — Deep Nourishment & Barrier Support
1. Hyaluronic Acid (multi-weight)
Draws and layers moisture to visibly plump and soften the complexion.
2. Ceramides (NP, AP, EOP)
Rebuilds the lipid barrier, reduces flakiness, and restores comfort.
3. Shea Butter or Colloidal Oat
Locks in moisture while soothing irritation and dryness.
Oily Skyn — Balance Oil Without Stripping
1. Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Clears pores, reduces blackheads, and keeps congestion under control.
2. Azelaic Acid (10%)
Balances oil production, brightens dark spots, and keeps acne at bay.
3. Green Tea Extract (EGCG)
Calms inflammation while regulating sebum and adding antioxidant protection.
Combination Skyn — Targeted, Multi-Zone Care
1. Niacinamide (5%)
Balances oil in the T-zone while supporting hydration in drier areas.
2. Lactic Acid (gentle AHA)
Smooths texture without over-drying; great for uneven, mixed-skin patterns.
3. Squalane
A lightweight hydrator that moisturizes dry zones without clogging oily ones.
Sensitive Skyn — Calm, Soothe & Rebuild
Remember: any skyn type can also be sensitive
1. Aloe Vera or Centella Asiatica (Cica)
Reduces inflammation and supports recovery.
2. Colloidal Oat or Beta-Glucan
Deeply soothing humectants that strengthen the barrier.
3. Ceramides
Essential for long-term resilience and reducing reactivity.
You can shop my recommendations directly below, and note that products with a red star on the picture are products i use in either my daily or weekly routine. If you still need more help crafting the perfect routine without all the guess work, consider booking a virtual consultation with me and we’ll get you started on your journey asap.
